Discoveries, challenges and connections on the road to Choquequirao and Machu Picchu.
This story tells of a 10-day journey to the ruins of Choquequirao and Machu Picchu, following an ancestral route marked by history and those who wrote it. From departure in Cusco to arrival in Abancay, every step of this journey is a revelation of history, nature and self-discovery. Through challenging trails and encounters with the wildlife of the Andes, our LimaTours colleague, Lizbeth Llanos, immerses herself in a world where time fades and connections to the past become tangible.
Between the imposing mountains and the mysteries of the Andes lies a trail that arouses the curiosity of adventurers and history lovers alike. My passion for hiking and my fascination for archaeology led me to embark on an epic journey: a 10-day, 9-night trek to the ruins of Choquequirao and Machu Picchu. This trail, rated 5 in difficulty, is much more than a simple trek. It is the way to Machu Picchu's "Sacred Sister" and the last bastion of the Incas. Rising majestically above the Apurimac River Canyon, Choquequirao, which means "Cradle of Gold" in Quechua, is an archaeological treasure that has barely been excavated at 30% of its full size. Three times the size of Machu Picchu, its enclosures, temples and terraces tell ancient stories that are just beginning to be revealed.
Let's get our shoes and backpacks ready for this adventure!
We drove from Cusco to the Apurimac region and began our trek in the town of Cachora. Filled with anxiety and nervousness, we set out into the unknown, ready to discover the mysteries that awaited us at every step. Our first destination was the fascinating archaeological site of Saywite, located in the district of Curahuasi, in the province of Abancay. There, among the ancient ruins and the history carved into the stones, we felt the excitement of being in a place where time stands still. After absorbing every detail, we went to the Chiquiska camp, descending from Capulliyoc after a comforting lunch. During this journey we were surrounded by astonishing nature, which made our trip even more unforgettable. At dawn, the fresh mountain scent welcomed us with open arms, inviting us to continue our adventure. After an early breakfast, we prepared to face the day with determination and enthusiasm. With each step, the landscape changed before our eyes, revealing new wonders and challenges. We descended to Rosalinda Beach, where we crossed the bridge that marked the end of our journey through the Apurimac region and the entrance to Cusco. From there we began the ascent to our next destination: Marampata Camp, from where we have a beautiful view of the Apurimac River and the ruins of Choquequirao.
The long-awaited day had finally arrived: it was time to enter the mysterious Choquequirao Archaeological Park. Here, the spectacular sights will take your breath away as you wander through each of its precincts. From the famous terraces of the llamas to the imposing Temple of the Astronomer, each step immersed us more in the rich history of this sacred place. After an intense day of exploration, we settled into our camp near Choquequirao and allowed ourselves to be enveloped by the ancestral energies that flowed in every corner. The next day, knowing that we were about to say goodbye to this archaeological treasure, we entered Choquequirao once again. Every step we took and every place we looked at became precious treasures that we will keep in our memories forever. With one last look, we said goodbye and prepared for the next chapter of our adventure. We ascended through a native forest, leaving behind the majesty of Choquequirao, but taking with us its essence and mystery. Then we began the descent to our next destination: the camp at the archaeological site of Pinchaunuyoq, where the spectacular view of the Apurimac Valley welcomed us with open arms and marked the end of a day full of emotions and new discoveries.
We woke up eager for new adventures, and before the sun got too hot, we hit the trail, steadily descending to the Blanco River. We crossed its waters with determination, knowing that each step we took brought us closer to whatever was waiting for us on the other side. As we began the climb to the picturesque town of Maizal, we were excited to arrive, knowing that we would find shelter in its streets and connect with the warmth of its people as we set up camp for the night.
The climb began, and with each step our eyes took in the incredible scenery that unfolded before us. We passed by old mines, such as the mythical Victoria Mine, and after walking for quite a while, we finally reached the San Juan Pass, located at 4150 meters above sea level, where the air was purer and our enthusiasm increased with the altitude. During the ascent we marveled at the presence of vicuñas, and although the fear of encountering other wild inhabitants such as spectacled bears (andean bear) or pumas kept us alert, we continued on our way with courage and respect for nature. As soon as we arrived at the campsite in the community of Yanama, we gratefully said farewell to our faithful mules and muleteers who, with firm steps, began the return journey to Cachora in Abancay. Many travelers consider this the most interesting day of the trip because of the mines, the impressive landscape and the altitude of the pass. In Yanama, the bustling population welcomed us with open arms, reminding us that even in the most remote heights, the arrival of transportation changes and facilitates things, being able to find in this community much more activity, as well as medical posts, health centers and schools.
The next day, ready to capture every moment of the trail, we began the ascent, challenging the Yanama Pass while admiring the imposing presence of the snow-capped Sacsarayoc rising majestically on the horizon. Fortune smiled on us as we witnessed the majestic flight of the condors, adding an even more sublime touch to our experience. We then descended at a brisk pace to the Totora village camp, where the warmer weather welcomed us with open arms, announcing our proximity to the entrance of the jungle.
After spending a warmer night, we began the descent to our next destination, Lucmabamba, which immersed us in a dreamlike landscape, surrounded by the lush green and luxuriant vegetation of the rainforest. Near the base of the Temple of the Moon, an ancient Inca ceremonial sanctuary, we found refuge in our campsite, where the peaceful sound of the Urubamba River accompanied us at night. On the way, we marveled at the breathtaking views of coffee plantations stretching as far as the eye could see, while the majestic waterfalls resounded, reminding us of the greatness of nature around us. As a beautiful sunset fell, we prepared to spend our last night under the stars, surrounded by the magic of the Andes and the desire for new adventures.
Full of excitement and expectations, we began the ascent from where we were until we reached a strategic viewpoint. There, nature gave us an unexpected gift: a panoramic view of Machu Picchu unfolding before us in all its splendor. After days of arduous trekking, this view was like balm for the soul, a well-deserved reward that reminded us of the power and beauty of nature. After enjoying the view, we went to a restaurant with a spectacular view where we shared a lunch that tasted like glory after so much effort. Then we descended to the hydroelectric plant in the Santa Teresa district of La Convención province to board the train that would take us to Aguas Calientes, the doorway to Machu Picchu. By dawn the next day, we were ready and eager to explore the impressive and mystical citadel of Machu Picchu. We took a bus to the archaeological site where, accompanied by our guide, we immersed ourselves in the history and magnificence of this ancient Inca citadel. We explored every corner, marveling at sites such as the Temple of the Condor, the Room of the Three Windows, and the Temple of the Sun, absorbing the energy of this unique place in the world. After a day full of discoveries, we returned to Aguas Calientes where the train was waiting to take us back to Cusco, bringing us home with a heart full of unforgettable memories and a promise to return one day.
With each step of this experience, we discovered more than just ruins and landscapes; it was a journey of self-discovery and connection to history and nature. We returned to the city with unforgettable memories and a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore the places where the Incas forged their legacy. After days of intense trekking, we were generously rewarded by the beautiful landscapes and the history that penetrated every corner. This unique experience reminded us of the vastness of the world and the human capacity to explore, discover and connect with what really matters.
